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UV RAYS, SUN FILTERS, SPF: PROTECT YOURSELF WHILE RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT

by Sara Di Benedetto |

The sun is life!

It helps us synthesize vitamin D and prevent many skin disorders. Plus, the sun makes us feel happier!

Unfortunately, however, with its ultraviolet (UV) rays it has also been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as a carcinogen .

The most effective prevention is achieved during sun exposure starting from an early age , and it is the dose that makes the difference together with the type of skin ( phototype ) and the intensity of the sun.

The extent of damage increases with increasing duration and damage is more severe if prolonged exposure occurs when radiation is very intense , such as in the hottest hours of the day ( from 11:00 to 15:00 ), in the summer months , at high altitudes with the thinnest atmosphere (for every 1000 m of altitude UV levels increase by 10-12%) , and also with decreasing latitude and cloud cover.

Another environmental factor that influences UV levels, besides the ozone layer that protects the earth, is the reflectivity of the earth's surface : for example, snow reflects about 80% of UV radiation, dry beach sand about 15%, and sea foam 25%.

What are UV rays?

Ultraviolet radiation is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than visible light , but longer than that of X-rays. It is the most β€œenergetic” radiation of the solar spectrum with which we come into contact and also the most dangerous for our skin.

The name means "beyond violet" (from the Latin ultra, "beyond"), because violet is the visible color with the shortest wavelength.

Graph: UV rays in the electromagnetic spectrum

UV rays are divided into UVA, UVB and UVC:

  • UVA (320-400 nm): these represent 99% of the UV rays that reach the Earth's surface; less erythematous than UVB but more penetrating , they cause premature skin aging and promote the onset of other acute and chronic skin diseases ;
  • UVB (280-320 nm): these are only a small part of the UV rays that reach the Earth's surface; less penetrating than UVA, they strike the most superficial layer of the skin, the epidermis, and are responsible for the synthesis of vitamin D and melanin, which is the basis of tanning , but they also cause sunburn, erythema and other serious skin diseases ;
  • UVC (200-280 nm): they are very dangerous but being absorbed by the gases in the stratosphere - if the ozone layer does not undergo further changes! - they do not reach the Earth's surface .

Graph showing the penetration of different wavelengths of light into human skin

Graph: Penetration of light of different wavelengths into human skin

How to protect yourself from the sun?

Here are 10 tips for enjoying the sun responsibly and avoiding sunburn, erythema, premature skin aging, and other potentially serious diseases:

  1. Before exposure to the sun, carefully evaluate all atmospheric factors, remembering that altitude, latitude, wind and even a cloudy sky modify the intensity of radiation;
  2. Stay in the shade during the hottest hours of the day (11:00 am to 3:00 pm);
  3. Make sure to protect the most frequently exposed parts of your body with light clothing and wear sunglasses with quality lenses;
  4. Always keep newborns up to six months old in the shade and protect older children , especially those with very fair skin or those prone to sunburn, with clothing that does not allow UV rays to filter through ;
  5. Avoid tanning lamps and beds!
  6. Be careful if you are taking particular drugs , called "photosensitizers" , because they can increase sensitivity to solar radiation;
  7. Use sunscreen , even if you are already tanned, and apply it evenly and generously a quarter of an hour before sun exposure, preferably with an SPF of 15 or higher ( did you know that there is a minimal difference between SPF30 and SPF50 protection? Read on to find out more);
  8. Repeat the application every two hours and every time you bathe, sweat or play sports ( be careful to always reapply the protection evenly and generously over the whole body!! );
  9. Don't blindly rely on "water-resistant" sunscreens, as they have been shown to lose effectiveness after contact with water. They also need to be reapplied (like all sunscreens), especially if you dry your skin with a towel in addition to getting wet. This type of protection tends to mislead the user, who may feel more confident and protected, and thus justified in applying less product and less frequently, thus, absurdly, risking more than when using a non-water-resistant sunscreen!
  10. Avoid using last year's sunscreen!! The PAO (Period After Opening) of sunscreens is usually 12 months, but a sunscreen used correctly, with the right doses and frequency of application, should unfortunately last a very short time!

How to choose sunscreen?

Choosing a sunscreen is a responsible gesture towards ourselves and our planet . Many sunscreens are extremely polluting! Furthermore, it shouldn't be a seasonal choice because the sun is a constant risk throughout the year. And for this very reason:

The European Code Against Cancer, promoted by IARC, suggests the use of sunscreens even during the winter and in the city!

To make the right and safe choice in an informed and conscious manner, you should be aware of all the essential characteristics that distinguish the numerous proposals on the market.

Here's our summary:

The difference between physical and chemical filters

Sunscreens are the ingredients that give sunscreens their protective properties. They are "substances intended exclusively or mainly to protect the skin from certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV radiation" (EC Regulation No. 1223/2009). They are divided into two categories: physical and chemical filters.

I) Physical sunscreens

Physical filters (also called inorganic or mineral) are a true sunscreen capable of reflecting harmful UVA and UVB rays . They are safe for the health of the skin and the environment β€”they do not have the devastating effects of chemical filters on aquatic flora and fauna.

They are photostable and inert and therefore do not penetrate the skin . They protect effectively , do not cause overheating or irritation , minimize the risk of allergies and skin sensitization and are therefore particularly suitable for sensitive individuals and children.

Their limitation lies in their difficult workability during cosmetic formulation, which in most cases leads to a heavy, difficult-to-spread finished product. Once applied to the skin, in fact, they give rise to a "white effect" or "ghost effect. " The use of physical filters in the form of nanoparticles (indicated "nano" on the label) should have solved this problem, or at least reduced it, but the use of nano-physical filters raises many doubts regarding their safety for human health .

In the case of Coccoon coconut sunscreen , the essential and balanced formula has made it possible to produce a very fluid and comfortable sunscreen on the skin, with a very light, practically imperceptible white effect. From this perspective, however, sunscreens with physical filters should not be compared to creams formulated with chemical filters, as these filters are completely different in terms of their workability within the formula.

The physical filters permitted in sunscreen products are:

  • Zinc oxide;
  • Nano Zinc Oxide;
  • Titanium dioxide ;
  • Nano titanium dioxide;

  • Titanium dioxide is the natural sunscreen chosen for Coccoon coconut sunscreen which, unlike most sunscreens formulated with physical filters , is easily spreadable and light.Β 

    II) Chemical sunscreens

    Chemical filters (or organic filters) are synthetic substances that selectively absorb UVA and UVB radiation : they break them down, retain the energy and release it in the form of heat and/or fluorescence, increasing the sensation of heat felt on the skin.

    Cheaper than physical filters, they are also easier to process and ensure the creation of lightweight, easily spreadable products without any whitening of the skin. The major problem with these ingredients, however, is their potential toxicity and allergenicity . They can cause irritation, enter the bloodstream, and potentially disrupt endocrine systems, causing adverse effects on human health . Furthermore, chemical filters are highly polluting for fish, mollusks, algae, and corals, as they can cause genetic modifications that alter neurological and reproductive behavior in various species.

    Some names of chemical filters used in sunscreens:

  • Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone);
  • Benzophenone-4;
  • 4-methylbenzylidene camphor;
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate;
  • EthylhexylSalicylate and Homosalate;
  • Octocrylene and Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate or OMC);
  • DrometrizoleTrisiloxane, Ethylhexyldimethyl PABA or PADIMATE;
  • Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate;
  • Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl;
  • Benzoate;
  • Sun Protection Factors (SPF): Which One to Choose?

    The sun protection factor ( SPF ) is a numerical value (from 6 to 50+) that measures the protection capacity of the sunscreen product against UVB rays . Since UVA rays are also harmful, the European Commission recommends that sunscreen products be able to protect against both UVB and UVA radiation.

    So if the product label features the symbol of a circle containing the acronym UVA , as in the case of Coccoon coconut sunscreen , it means that the product also has the ability to filter UVA rays as well as UVB rays , thus providing effective protection during sun exposure.

    SPF is determined through specific physical and biological tests, which include in vitro or in vivo tests.

    Considering that it is scientifically proven that SPF15 provides 93.3% UVB protection , SPF30 96.7% , SPF45 97.8% , and SPF50 98% ( provided the sunscreen is applied at the recommended doses and frequency ) , it is clear that the substantial difference between the various sunscreens available on the market starts with SPF15, which is in fact the minimum protection value also recommended by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). Indeed, these functional differences can be overcome by applying sunscreen more frequently and/or with more generous doses.

    Chart showing the levels of UVB protection associated with different SPFs

    Graph: UVB protection level versus SPF value

    For Coccoon coconut sunscreen , after careful research and evaluation, we chose to formulate a safe and effective SPF30 product that was more safety-oriented than marketing-oriented and that was also recommended for children and the most delicate and sensitive skin . Technically, as shown in the graph, it is in fact a product that is only 1.3% less protective than an SPF50 sunscreen!!!

    If used correctly, following the instructions on the label, Coccoon coconut sunscreen will provide the best protection, both in summer and beyond (given the IARC recommendation to use sunscreens even in winter and in the city!).

    In any case, the advice for choosing the ideal sunscreen is to always orient yourself towards a sustainable and environmentally friendly product and to expose yourself to the sun with an awareness of its dangers and therefore following the 10 responsible behaviors we summarized at the beginning of this in-depth article.

    Good life!

    Sunbathe responsibly ;)

    [If you think that Coccoon sunscreen could also be your daily protection, you can purchase it here ].

    Sources: 1. Shaath NA. Sunscreens, development, evaluation, and regulatory aspects. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, Inc; 1997:211–233. 2. Moyal D, Fourtanier A. Photoaging. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, Inc; 2004:15–32. 3. Kullavanijaya P, Lim HW. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;52:937–958. 4. The Journal of Aesthetic Dermatology, Sept. 2012, Vol. 5, no. 9. 5. Dermatologic clinics, Oct. 2000, Vol. 18, no. 4. 6.Β The Journal of Aesthetic Dermatology,Β Jan. 2013, Vol. 6, No. 1.